Ian Dunbar talks about how dogs become shelter dogs.

The message in this short video is vital for anyone who is getting or has a puppy, works with shelter or rescue dogs, or anyone considering adopting a shelter or rescue dog.

(Photo credit: bk2000)

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This trick is great fun for most dogs, but it can be a little scary for some pups to show their belly. Go slow, and if your dog isn’t having fun, you can always try something else.

Step One: Get your dog to lie down.

Step Two: With a treat in one hand and a clicker (if you so choose) in your other, lure the dog on his side by moving the treat behind his head. Your dog should turn his head and shift his body position; when he does, click and give him the treat.

Step Three: Go a little further each time, until your dog is on his side. Click, treat, and continue luring him onto his back, giving treats often. If your dog gets tired, don’t be afraid to give him a break.

Step Four: Once your pup is on his back, he might roll to the other side on his own! If he does, click and treat it, release him, and keep going.

Step Five: When he is reliably rolling all the way over with your lure, start going through the same procedure without a treat in your hand, but still click and reward once he completes the behavior.

Step Six: Add in your verbal cue while very gradually fading your lure. After a few sessions, your pup will now roll over on cue without the hand signal!

Have a blast teaching your dog this entertaining trick!

photo credit: OakleyOriginals

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Most dogs between five and 18 months, large or small, play hard — so it’s up to us to locate toys that are both safe and last more than 20 seconds once the dog starts using them!

Soft latex or plush toys aren’t suitable for most growing dogs (although some dogs enjoy carrying a fleecy toy like it’s a puppy). Stuffed animals, particularly those with squeakers, tend to be disemboweled after only minutes of play, and latex ones are torn apart even faster.

A game of tug with you or another dog makes many dogs’ lists of all-time fun activities, so knotted rope bones, strong rubber tug toys or large plastic bones are good additions to the toy box.

My first criteria when choosing a toy is “Will it last longer than a week?” If the answer is yes, then the toy likely passes the safety test, as well. The second is, “Will my dog play with it?” Toy-treat combos, such as products made from rawhide, might be enjoyed by your dog, but don’t qualify as interactive or provide much mental stimulation. While some dogs are happy to make a toy from anything, it’s important to start teaching your dog early in puppyhood which objects are for playing, and which objects belong to you.

Here are five of my favorite dog toys:

Buster Cube

The Buster Cube is a perfect way to feed your dog if you don’t have time to trade the dog’s dinner for a few tricks or obedience behaviors. The cube has a maze-like center that you fill with kibble or treats, and your dog rolls it this way and that to get the food out. It’s a great way to add a little work to your dog’s day!

Ultra Kong

If ever a toy was designed specifically for big, strong adolescent dogs, the Kong Company has made it happen. The “Ultra” Black Kong toy is made for heavy chewers and can take more abuse than its red counterpart. If you have one a dog who does not enjoy chasing or chewing the Kong, stuff it full of canned food and freeze — this will generate interest!

Jawz disc

The Jawz disc by Hyperflite is an extremely durable disc that flies just like a regular one. Most dogs will destroy a regular plastic disc in one 20-minute play session. Although puppies and young dogs should not jump to catch discs until their growth plates have closed, you can begin teaching dogs of any age how to grab short tosses and pick up rollers off the ground.

JW Pet Invincible Rings

These heavy-duty interlocking rings are perfect for joint tug games, whether with you or another dog. They withstand dogs who are strong pullers and chompers! A determined dog can sit with this toy and chew it apart, so it is best used under supervision and not left alone with your dog.

Kong Goodie Bone

Even dogs who aren’t chewers like this bone, and dogs who are chewers love it! A little peanut butter or cream cheese, or a biscuit stuffed in one end provides hours of tough-chewing fun. My dogs like to “share” it between them with endless games of tug. Perfect for your female who likes to play, “I have it and you don’t”! Put it in the refrigerator or freezer first to sooth teething jaws.

If you’re the crafty type, looking to save a few pennies or just like to know where your dog’s toys come from, you can follow this affiliate link to Make Your Own Dog Toys.

Be sure to inspect all your dog’s toys regularly, and replace any that are worn or have pieces missing.

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There’s a terrific discussion about thunderstorm phobia, body language and the issue of whether fear can be reinforced over on Patricia McConnell’s excellent blog.

The oft-given advice to ignore a dog who’s feeling fearful may not be correct. But, like most emotions, fear and its resulting behavior can be complex to address from a behavioral standpoint.

Read for yourself and see what you think — Dr. McConnell promises to write more on the topic, and several folks are offering good advice for thunderstorm phobia in the meantime.
photo credit: broxtronix

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1. Is your dog afraid of the clicker?

I get asked that question a lot.

The short explanation is that it’s a television show — entertaining to some, I’m sure, but not particularly useful to pet owners watching the show, and potentially dangerous to dogs and people alike.

The longer explanation is here, or here.

For you geeky behavior types, Eric Goebelbecker over at Dog Spelled Forward has taken on the intrepid task of providing in-depth reviews of the show.

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1. Your agility dog: Building focus and drive (Part One)

Invisible fencing may seem like a good idea on the outset, but I believe the risks outweigh the benefits. Below are five reasons I think these fences aren’t the best option for containing your dog.

1. You still have to train the dog. Many people assume an invisible or underground fence is “plug ‘n’ play” — that is, you simply install it, plop the collar on your dog, and let him play to his heart’s content. This is not the case (as the reputable underground fence dealers will tell you). The dog still must be trained to accept the fence’s boundaries. But the assumption that it is an “easy” way to contain a dog makes me question whether the potential owner is really willing to put effort into the dog’s care and training (i.e., regular walks, obedience), as well as make sacrifices (e.g., increased cost and imperfect landscaping) to accommodate the dog.
2. Electric shock. As far as I know, all varieties of invisible fencing operate on the premise that the dog wears a collar which produces electric shock when the boundary line is approached. Some dogs are so determined to make it through the fence that the shock level must be turned up unusually high. I have seen instances in which a dog wearing a fence collar was inadvertently shocked by the owner’s television, computer or vacuum. (Think of how healthy this is for the poor dog’s mental state!) I have also heard horror stories and seen pictures of third-degree burns caused by fence collars that have malfunctioned. Beware of the underground fencing dealer who tells you this can’t/won’t happen — after all, he’s there to sell you something, not to look out for your dog’s well-being. That’s your job.
3. Dogs can — and will — go through an invisible fence. And once they do, guess what? They won’t come back into the yard for fear of getting shocked; they aren’t stupid. They’re simply willing to take the shock the first time through to get whatever they’re after. And once they’re through, they’re free to chase other animals, get into fights, get hit by cars, be shot at, picked up by animal control, etc.
4. Underground fencing does not keep anyone from entering your property. Therefore, children, cats, other dogs, wild animals and the like are free to come onto your property and tease or terrorize your dog. And dog thieves find underground fencing absolutely delightful — all they have to do is take the collar off the dog and go!
5. This study linking use of or malfunctioning of underground fencing to serious biting incidents. Do we really need to make dog owners more subject to lawsuits and breed-specific legislation? Further reading: “Train With Your Brain” — Green Acres Kennel

Keep in mind this is my reasoning, and there are plenty of responsible trainers, rescuers and breeders who will place dogs in homes with invisible fencing. Also understand that a “real” fence can be a hallmark of lazy or irresponsible dog ownership and is certainly not a cure-all. But given the fact that regular exercise and training can eliminate the need for a fenced yard (a luxury) and given the variety of fencing options available, I’m inclined to discourage clients from using invisible fencing, for the reasons listed above.

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1. Your agility dog: Building focus and drive (Part One)

In agility or other dog sports, we often hear about a dog’s drive. Maybe someone has said your dog has a lot of drive, or could use more drive.

What is “drive”?

Sometimes you’ll hear people talk about different types of drive in dogs, such as fight drive, play drive or prey drive. For our purposes, we’ll lump these together under the description, “the dog’s desire to perform certain behavior.”

Drive is important because it’s what makes the dog go! We can channel a dog’s drive to play with a toy into prerequisites for playing with that toy, such as a sit or down. Dogs who perform with speed and enthusiasm on the agility course are often said to have a lot of drive.

Drive versus arousal

We handlers and trainers love drive, especially in a working dog. However, there is a difference between drive and arousal.

Arousal in dogs means “an excited mental state.” Arousal, while useful in many situations in which dogs are asked to perform, also can be dangerous. Dog bites take place when a dog is aroused. Besides sometimes leading to aggressive behavior towards humans, arousal can also lead to fights between dogs. Leashed dogs that bark at other dogs during walks are often demonstrating arousal as a result of frustration.

Watch the two videos below to see the difference between drive and arousal.

• Video: (Arousal) Dog barking at squirrel
• Video: (Drive) Dogs playing disc

So, if drive requires the dog to be aroused, how do we ensure what we have is drive, and not simply arousal? Answer: We want controllable, focused arousal.

Controllable, focused arousal = drive

By “focused,” we mean “attentive to the handler.” After all, dogs can focus on many things — cats, birds, other dogs — without ever acknowledging the handler’s existence!

How to get drive

Let’s get started on few exercises to enhance your dog’s focus and drive.

First, we’ll teach our dogs to focus on us, even when something they want is at stake, using the Doggie Zen exercise. This exercise teaches our dogs to perform a required behavior (in this case, paying attention to us), before receiving a treat or other reward.

Second, we’ll show our dogs the benefits of allowing us to control their drive with the “Go Wild and Freeze” game. To play the game, grab some treats and a clicker and get your dog a bit riled — nothing crazy, your typical excited praise should be enough. Then, once the dog is excited, suddenly stop moving, avert your eyes and give your “quit” command (“That’s enough,” “Settle,” or “Take a break”). Click and treat as soon as your dog shows signs of settling. (If the treats rile your dog again, use lower-value rewards or replace them with soft praise and petting.) Then repeat, seeing how quickly you can get your dog riled and how fast he or she will respond to your “stop” request.

Third, we’ll add the “1-2-3 Game” to help lower-drive dogs get excited, and higher-drive dogs to contain themselves! Hold a treat just out of your dog’s reach and count slowly to three. If your dog attempts to jump or grab for the treat, remove your hand, then put it a little farther from his or her nose and start counting again from one. If your dog remains in place and doesn’t try to grab the treat, encourage him to “come get it” using “Go!” or another release cue after counting to three. “One… Two… Three… Go!” Some dogs will need the treat to be quite far from their noses at first.

In Part 2 next week, we’ll look at ways to increase your dog’s focus, as well as how to build your dog’s drive, and make your dog’s drive even more controllable.

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1. Your agility dog: Building focus and drive (Part Two)
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This dog gives us an excellent look at arousal; in this case, predatory arousal. Note her dilated pupils and wide-mouthed panting. Watch during the first five seconds of the video as she licks her lips — this is a calming signal asking the person with the camera to please “back off.” Keep an eye on her tail position and movement. Do you think she wants to make friends with the squirrel?

There are at least two additional warning/calming signals in this video. Can you spot them? (Hint: Watching with the volume off helps.)

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1. Your agility dog: Building focus and drive (Part One)
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You think you know your dog? See if your dog has been subject to any of these popular canine myths.

Talk to anyone from your next-door neighbor to your cousin who shows dogs, and you’ll hear a variety of interpretations on dogs and dog behavior. Some of the most common myths I hear regarding our canine friends are debunked below.

Myth: Dogs are essentially wolves.

Some dogs may have wolf-like characteristics, but rest assured they are 100 percent domesticated dog.

Because science tells us dogs are direct descendants of wolves, animal behaviorists and dog trainers assumed for a long time that dog and wolf behavior are interchangeable. We now know this is not the case. Biologists now hypothesize dogs are not pack animals, but semi-solitary scavengers, and do not form social hierarchies the same way wolves do.

Using “alpha rolls” or other forceful techniques in an attempt to thwart perceived “dominant” behavior is unecessary, and is often seen by dogs as an act of aggression.

The Monks of New Skete, who popularized the wolf-to-dog culture trend in their book, “How to Be A Dog’s Best Friend,” have since omitted such training suggestions in the book’s revised edition.

Top animal behaviorists, including Ian Dunbar, Jean Donaldson, Patricia McConnell and Karen Pryor, agree solid leadership is best achieved by controlling the dog’s access to resources without resorting to the use of force.

Myth: Dogs want to please.

This is not entirely untrue. Dogs DO want to please – themselves. Dogs are exceedingly selfish. They do what they do because making us happy means they get more of what they want – attention, food and freedom.
Our mistaken belief in dog altruism is why we are so perplexed when the dog uses a behavior we DON’T like — such as jumping up, barking or digging — to get what it wants.

The good news: You can use this ubiquitous doggie trait to your advantage by controlling the dog’s environment and the consequences of its behavior. For example, if the dog is getting in the trash, you can confine the dog or confine the trash. Or if you’d like the dog not tear the door off its hinges as it goes out, you can request a sit from the dog before opening the door.

Myth: Dog training takes lots of time.

Teaching your dog new tricks takes lots of consistency, and a little time. Breaking bad habits takes more consistency, and a little more time. Every interaction you have with your dog is a training situation. When the dog paws at your leg and you absentmindedly reach down to pet it, you are training. When the dog lies quietly at your feet while you watch TV and you absentmindedly reach down to pet it, you are training.

The key to teaching good habits and breaking bad ones is to not be absentminded around your dog! Be consistent and be aware, and the training will take less time than you think. To borrow from top K-9 trainer Steve White: Remember that training is taking place until either you or the dog achieves room temperature.

Myth: An aggressive dog is a protective dog.

Aggressive dogs, simply put, won’t tell friend from foe. Dogs, in most cases, are much less adept at reading human intentions than we’d like to believe. My dogs bark wildly every time I return home, despite repeated admonishments of, “It’s STILL me!”

An aggressive dog is much more likely to threaten or injure you, your family, neighbors or friends than it is to ward off intruders. If you want a dog for protection, go out and get the biggest, happiest dog you can find, then train it exceedingly well in obedience. Would-be bad guys won’t want to find out what else the dog knows, and you won’t have to worry about the dog misfiring on you, your family, friends and other animals.

Myth: Dogs don’t have feelings.

Well, anyone who’s ever looked into those adorable, deep brown eyes knows this isn’t true. But science is finally catching up to the fact that dogs and other animals, while not expressing the emotional range we recognize in humans, are sentient creatures. The Economist in February reported that new scientific research is beginning to shake tradition to allow for the recognition and documentation of animal emotions. Personality aspects distinctive to dogs were labeled “sociability,” “affection,” “emotional stability” and “competence,” in studies by Samuel Gosling at the University of Texas in Austin.

Dr. Gosling’s conclusions will allow behaviorists to better understand individual animals’ personality differences, while giving dog owners one more reason to refer to their pets as members of the family.

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